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Lady Tree Doctor

Claudia West
Certified Arborist
Certification #
FL-5755A

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Tree Trimming
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Trees need special care and training, and like people, they come in different shapes, sizes, and with their own special needs. But like people, there are general guidelines to their care, and urban trees need to be trimmed in order to be trained to grow properly.

There is a right way and several wrong ways to trim trees, but the main wrong way is over-thinning which is also called lion-tailing.  That happens when most of the branches are trimmed off the main limb, only leaving a few at the tips of the branches.  Tree men will tell you that they are cleaning out the tree and allowing for more wind to pass through, but in reality, the branches are weakened because they are taught to grow longer and don’t build up the strength and bulk at the base of the limb. 

Trimming Trees

Before trimming
This tree has not been trimmed yet.

Over-thinned tree
This is the same tree, over-thinned.

3-step hurricane prepped tree
With the 3-Step Hurricane Prep
the tree is 10x stronger and still beautiful.


The right way to trim a tree is what I call my 3-Step Hurricane Prep™. First, we determine the natural canopy of the tree. Second, we trim the ends of the tree - not drastically - to remove end weight and strengthen the tree. Third, lightly thin the tree if needed. Since trees grow wild, they need to be tamed, otherwise they will damage themselves. If one limb is growing into another limb, it needs to either be removed or redirected (by trimming back to another branch large enough to take over). This method of trimming has proven effective for years, and makes your trees much more resistant to storm and hurricane damage. A storm-ready tree is a safer tree.

Click here to contact us for a free estimate.

 

Moss Spraying
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If you were to describe the perfect tree, how would it look? Would it have cavities? Would it have two main trunks or one? Would it have plenty of leaves? Would they be dark lush green or yellowish and small? Most people, when they envision the perfect tree, imagine a tree with no blemishes, no marks, no parasites or diseases. They picture a tree that is large, and often spreading or with a ball-shaped canopy. And never is moss a part of the equation. Moss, whether it is Spanish moss or ball moss, never benefits the tree. Yet many people like it in their tree. If it were just a matter of taste, then one could say, "to each his own," and move on. Since tree owners are the ones responsible for their trees, that is true, but in the best interest of the trees, the moss is harmful. It doesn't kill the tree, but it does hinder the tree.

In an independent study, researchers found that Spanish moss is three times heavier when wet, which adds a great deal of weight to the branches of the tree, often resulting in broken limbs. When abundant, it covers up the branches and leaves, inhibiting photosynthesis in the trees. The University of Florida says that although Spanish moss is not harmful to the tree, it should be removed when over abundant to prevent branches from breaking under the weight when wet.

Spraying Trees for Moss


Living and Dead Spanish Moss
Before and after (6 months) spraying copper on Spanish Moss.

Ball moss, another tree pest, harms the tree by wrapping its root-like tendrils around small branches and limbs, strangling them and cutting off their food supply. In abundance, ball moss can also slow down the process of photosynthesis. Technically, ball moss is not a parasite (It's an epiphyte), because it does not live off the tree, but rather on the tree. It is more resilient than Spanish moss, but I have a solution for that.

Moss can be picked out of the tree manually, but it is very time-consuming and expensive. The most cost-effective method to remove moss is by spraying. There are three formulas that I offer. Copper, Potassium, and Baking Soda. Copper is the slowest solution, but it is the most thorough. It gives a guaranteed kill, because it travels through the moss. It is called a systemic killer, since it moves through the moss' system. Potassium gives more immediate results. It is a contact killer. If a tree is sprayed in the morning, the moss will be dead and crispy that afternoon. Baking soda is the safest solution. It is so safe you could swim in it and not be hurt - after all, don't we use it in our cooking? It has a high salt content, so I don't

recommend it on trees with new, tender growth, but it is also a contact killer, and very effective too. We use baking soda more when people are worried about their animals or children being affected by the chemicals we spray. What we spray is safe once it is dried, and most people (and animals) get out of theway while the men are spraying. Also, the trees do benefit from the sprays. Copper is an antifungal treatment, and potassium is one of the main ingredients in fertilizer.

Call me for a free estimate. The phone number is here or at the bottom of the page.

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Tree Bolting & Cabling
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When a tree has two or more main trunks, or a small split from a storm, it often needs reinforcement. After trimming using the 3-Step Hurricane Prep™, we put a bolt through the two trunks or parts of the tree. If there are more than two trunks that need bolting, we add more bolts. The tree is reinforced, and the chance of it splitting is enormously reduced. Bolts are a permanent addition, as are cables (which would be placed on smaller limbs if necessary). The tree heals over these parts and assumes it as part of itself.

Tree Bolting

Tree Injections
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Macroinjections
Tree Drinking


Deep Root Feeding

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Tree Removal & Stump Grinding
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Stump Grinding

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and is copyright 2008. No portion may be used without written permission from Claudia West.